Dash Electric Issue

2nd Generation 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 Toyota Prius Speedometer Dash Light Out Issue Complete Fix DIY

How to completely fix outage/dark cluster, combination meter, instrument panel, speedometer, or dash on a 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 or 2009 Toyota Prius 

To completely fix your cluster, combination meter, instrument panel, speedometer, or dash that is going out and causing other issues such as not being able to turn off vehicle, unable to open trunk, backup camera not functioning, and forcing you to reset your Prius by unplugging the white harness by the battery terminal, which will only solve the issue temporary; follow the next steps to fix it completely and avoid paying hundreds of dollars for a simple solution. Do-it-yourself!

Heads up! You will need to remove dash and solder a capacitor in back of the speedometer, which should be a piece of cake if you follow the steps below.

Estimated time to complete the job is 1.5 to 3 hours, but make sure to take your time so you won’t break any pieces.

Tools required for dash removal:

  • Philips screwdriver
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • Ratchet with extension

Tools required for soldering capacitor:

  • Soldering iron (preferably a kit)
  • 100uf 16v or 220uf 16v capacitor
  • Capacitor meter (optional)

Links to products I suggest for the soldering part:

Soldering Kit:

Electric Soldering Iron Kit 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Soldering Iron with 5pcs Different Tips

Capacitor 100uf 16v:

Capacitor 100uf 16v (Pack of 5) 

Capacitor 220uf 16v:

 220uf 16v Capacitor 5 Pack for $5

If you need to test the performance on your capacitor make sure you use a capacitor meter with UF measurability, a multimeter might not have this function. Here’s a link:

Capacitor Tester

Step 1: Remove the dash to get to the speedometer/combination meter. Watch this video that shows you step by step on how to remove it (don’t ship it to someone to get it fix like the guy does on the video, you can fix this yourself and save time and money; follow step 2 after): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pb19p8zYeTg&t=309s

Step 2: Once the speedometer/combination meter is removed to the part where you can see the circuit board or electronic components inside, (example image below), locate the defective capacitor.


Locate capacitor 100 16v (example image below).

Screen Shot 2018-01-11 at 10.18.49 AM

Now you can either solder a 100uf 16v on top of the 100uf 16v or remove it and replace it with a 220uf 16v capacitor. I personally think it is easier to solder the 100uf 16v on top of that one. An example image of what I did shown below. You can probably do a better job than I did, this is my second time doing this.

Screen Shot 2018-01-11 at 10.27.48 AM

According to some forums and videos found online this capacitor is the only thing that is different in the new speedometer, which is said to be too weak to hold the capacity.

Step 3: Finally, you can put everything back together and enjoy your Prius again.

Screen Shot 2018-01-11 at 10.51.12 AM

Feel free to comment below!

43 thoughts on “Dash Electric Issue

  1. Thank you! I was able to get thru this task relatively easily with the help of this page.

    I removed the original capacitor and soldered a 220uf 16v capacitor onto the two silver pads that were there. It wasn’t totally obvious what to do, so I thought I’d leave a note for the next person.

    The most time consuming part of the whole thing was taking the dash apart since mine had never been disassembled before.

    Thanks again!


      1. The links to the capacitors in Amazon are discontinued. Any suggestions where the 22 capacitor can be purchased? Thanks


  2. Thanks for the page. I followed the directions and I was able to complete the repair. It took me about 6 hours to get through everything, but well worth the time. Appreciate the effort you and the youtube producer put in to help people.


  3. Thanks for taking the time to make this page. This saved me about $1200. I should have probably just piggybacked a 100 microfarad like you did, but a 220 was what I had. I removed the original by using the soldering iron to heat up the positive and negative pad for the original capacitor and wiggling it off when each side became liquefied. I used VFerdman from priuschat’s idea to bend the leads of the capacitor at 90 degree angles to act like “feet”, and tinning the feet and pads before attaching them together. I am not good at all at soldering, but I had a little luck (or the divine guidance I prayed for) on my side for about 45 seconds of relative competence.


  4. After reading this, I sense we got royally screwed by the Toyota dealership mechanics. We paid over $700.00 to get ours fixed. We we’re having the same issues…having to tap the battery ends, dashlights not working, the engine wouldn’t shut off, etc.


    1. No you didn’t get screwed. Toyota is not going to change just the capacitor. They are going change the whole defective unit. Which probably costs an arm plus the labor to take the dashboard apart plus a warranty. It’s not easy. I did this myself yesterday and $700 sounds like a deal!!


  5. Question: I’m having the typical problems on my 2004 Prius (blank dash, can’t turn car off), but the 100 uf capacitor on the board measures perfect, 100uf. Could it be something else besides the capacitor?


    1. Hi Robert, I would still assume the 100uf capacitor is too low. I’ve encountered other ones that also measure perfect and it is still that stubborn capacitor. Please share how it goes, this will help others as well.

      Thank you!

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Thanks for the response. I took it apart today and soldered a 100 capacitor. Put it back together and it seems to work fine so far.


  6. Great DIY post! I have read many forums (mostly priuschat) & seen videos. Texas Hybrid Batteries suggest to replace 3 capacitors & the regulator ic. Others say same as you. Thanks for the simple, confident fix with helpful photos! Please tell us if your fix is still working (any issues?) & since when (2-’18 by comment date?).


  7. I just replaced this capacitor with the 220 16v, not a surface mount I did the other style. I cleaned the pads well and soldered the new capacitor in the correct polarity. I started the car the dash came on but was not reading the gas level and was not showing data on the data screen (2nd screen that shows the levels) I took it for a ride and it cut out and went black. It came back on and then showed the correct gas level. I went to start the car again a little while later and its blacked out again. I was going to try to disconnect the battery again to see if that would reset it like it used to before. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I would probably stick to the 220uf 16v. I already know it works for sure. It has already been about 3 years and I still have my same prius running and haven’t had an issue ever since I changed it.

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Will this work? It says 6.3v to 16v
        BOJACK 6X12mm 10 Pcs Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors

        Product Features:

        Capacitor Capacity: 220uF
        Rated working voltage : 6.3V to 16V
        Capacitance Tolerance:±20%(120MHZ,+20℃).
        Capacitor dimension:6x12mm/0.24×0.47 inch
        Suggest operating Temperature:0-85℃/185℉,Maximum Operating Temperature: 105℃/221℉

        The aluminum electrolytic capacitor has a function of blocking direct current through alternating current.
        This series is for DIY, communication equipments,circuit board,switching power supply,industrial measuring,automotive electric products,etc


  8. WOW! This issue has been messing with me for the past few years. I had a 2007 Prius that did this every now and then, but unplugging/replugging the battery wasn’t a big hassle. That Prius got in a wreck, and I got another 2007 model, and this issue slowly became more and more prevalent. The dash wouldn’t light up almost any time I turned the car on, and it was becoming a huge issue. I looked high and low for a solution, and this is the only one that actually truly worked. THANK YOU so much for this write up

    Liked by 1 person

  9. This was amazing!! My 2008 prius starting doing this right after I replaced my battery. I was so mad because I had just spent $250 on my new battery and now this! Dealership wanted $1200 to fix it….I followed these directions and fixed it for $5.99. (I had NEVER tried anything like this.) I just happened to have a soldering iron in the garage and was willing to try! Here is the link to my 3 min video journey of following your recommendations! https://youtu.be/6bakA1GbvJ4


  10. Thank you so much. I did have to do it twice as I didn’t have a good solder job the first time. Very helpful thanks again.


  11. Very helpful thank you very much. I did have to take the dash apart twice because first time soldering in ages. Double check your solders.
    Great resource Thanks again!

    Liked by 1 person

  12. Thanks a bunch! The site was very helpful to clearly lay out the best ways to tackle this annoying issue. I ended up using a through hole near the positive lead of the capacitor for a better solder point when soldering a 100μF 16V capacitor in parallel. Negative lead was pretty easy to get to with my soldering iron at least.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hi Josh,

      I am unsure how much it costs to get a refurbished one but it’s under $100 I would probably consider it., if not, I would say try the method that’s on here first to see if it works and if it does not work then get a refurbished one but keep in mind you’ll probably spend more and you might need to adjust the miles to have it display the correct numbers. It’s weird that it has corrosion but it doesn’t look too bad in my opinion. I would also check you’re not getting any moisture inside your prius. Hope you get it solved.


  13. I went slow and took six hours. The electrical connectors threw me for a loop. It took me an hour to figure out how to release the plastic tab holding them together. The soldering was a nightmare. Now I see that you added insulation jackets around the capacitor leads. I didn’t think of that. Ah well, the car still turns on and runs fine. Hard to know whether the problem is solved, but maybe it is.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.